Carmen Sánchez García, a graduate in Economics from the University of Castilla-La Mancha, is an olive oil consultant who was born in Valdepeñas (Ciudad Real). Also, she is a renowned EVOO taster recognized by the UJA.
In 2016 AEMO (Spanish Association of Olive Grove Municipalities), gave her a special recognition on behalf of her professional activity. She is specialized in extra virgin quality and is a member of a panel of prestigious international competitions, where she sees a meeting point between technical knowledge and creativity.
As an advisor to some of the most popular «Michelin stars» in Germany and as an organizer of events, presentations, conferences and workshops on olive oil for companies and individuals, Carmen Sánchez always seeks to surprise those who, with curiosity, bring their nose to the tasting glass.
OLIVE TREES IN GERMANY? Carmen Sánchez García tells the story of this adventure.
«I break the schemes of this space a little and proceed to write as if it were a story. This is perhaps because the emotional part that it contains only highlights the essence and the interest that it awakens in the world of olive growing.»
Gartenhof Becker, located in a town near Cologne called Stommeln, is a family business that specializes not only in gardening and selling plants, but also in growing fruit trees, especially apple trees. This tree and its fruits became a strong point of the business since its beginning in 1948. It was then when Michael Becker’s father started it. Michael and his brother Heinz are therefore the second generation dedicated to the company.
Michael Becker always had a soft spot for the olive tree, because of its beauty and its culture. Since they started to offer it in tubs decades ago, he observed the nice development of the tree with enthusiasm, he even had already planted some in the gardens of those clients who acquired it.
This fact that the Rhine Valley in Germany enjoys the mildest winters in the whole country was why Michael wanted to start what’s known as “the olive grove project» in his facilities in 2005.
«Du hast nicht alle Tassen im Schrank, Junge!», which, translated from the German, means «You’re not right in the head, boy!
This is how Michael Becker’s father reacted when his son told him in 2003 about his idea to plant a small olive grove.
Michael tells me that unfortunately his father passed away and he could no longer witness how, shortly afterwards, very young olive trees of no more than 3 years old, of the Leccino, Cipressino and Olivastra Seggianesse varieties, were being raised in the lands of «Gartenhof Becker.» In only three years these trees reached a height of 2.5 m and had their first small harvest.
However, the project was jeopardized by a severe weather setback in the winter of 2008-2009. For two consecutive nights, temperatures dropped drastically, reaching -18°C – -20°C. The consequences and great damage of this frost were to be expected and became evident in March. Despite his sadness, Michael Becker was able to make an interesting and enlightening observation: the Leccino variety had proved to be the most resistant to such extreme temperatures, and its trees were still «fighting» to live. So, he decided not to give up and to replace the lost trees with Leccinos and some Cipressinos. The latter variety contributes to a good pollination of the former. The evolution and the current state of the olive grove of Stommeln can be summarized in the following points:
- Location: 51°01’26.9 «N, 6°44’32.2 «E
- 110 olive trees, mostly Leccinos, which are already around 3.5-4.00 m high. Their crowns have reached a diameter of between 2.00 and 3.00 m.
- Planting frame: very small (3.5 x 4.00 m), in an area of approximately 1,500 m2.
- Registered diseases: only, and due to the high index of humidity in the area, repilo has been detected. However, its incidence has been so unproblematic that no measures have been necessary to combat it.
- Nutritional status: rooted in very rich soil, these trees have never been fertilized
- Irrigation system: non-existent, although it can be easily implemented.
- Pruning: annual, usually early-mid March
- Flowering: first half of June. In 2020 it has been especially abundant. In this point, Michael Becker emphasizes the great affluence of bees in the olive grove during this time.
- Fruit: it reaches its maximum volume in the second half of September
- Average harvest in the last years was 60-70kg. This 2020 is expected to be much higher.
I would like to point out at this point that, until now, these olive trees have not been meant for gaining profit. Therefore, neither pruning nor any other type of work during the year has been aimed at increasing the yield. Until now, the olives harvested have been seasoned and eaten privately. I do not want to overlook a mention of the effects of climate change. Michael Becker tells me that they have never recorded winters as mild as those of the past 10 years. Nor have summers been as hot and dry.
The apple trees, the number one fruit trees since the beginning of Gartenhof Becker, are suffering from these new atmospheric conditions. A few days ago, walking among them while we were talking, we could observe how some of their fruits had been scorched by the sun.
The olive trees, on the other hand, smile as if they were at home in the Mediterranean. With their leafy growth and abundant healthy fruit in the process of development, they seem to want to tell us today that in Stommeln, very close to Cologne, clinging to the Rhine Valley, they have found a new home.
Michael Becker has an enthusiasm that captivated me years ago. I remember that just after finishing my course as a virgin olive oil expert at the University of Jaén, I went to visit him to offer him the possibility of developing ideas together.
From there our tastings among olive trees and, of course, my participation in the «Olive Tree Festival» («Olivenfest»), an annual event that takes place during a whole weekend in June, were born. The first annual event took place in 2006. Its popularity has been increasing year after year, reaching about 10.000 visitors in 2019. After the obligatory break in 2020, due to the Covid-19, we are confident that in 2021 we will be able to open our doors again.
I sometimes ask Michael about the dreams he has for this olive grove. With a smile, he always gives me the same answer: «The first olive oil produced in Germany: Cologne olive oil.”
In due time…
Email: carmensanchez@olivensaftagentur.com